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Cellar Notes
June 2008
“Stomp Out Grape Racism”
Bob Beckman, a long time winemaking buddy, coined the phrase ”Stomp
Out Grape Racism: Drink Native and Hybrid Grape Wines”. Bob is the
Winemaker for Eagle Crest Vineyards (www.eaglecrestvineyards.com) in the “Little Lakes” Region of New York State.
There is much to be said for drinking vinifera wines since they are the
predominant class of grape varieties planted throughout the world. However,
there is much more to be said about native and hybrid grape wines found in
many wineries east of the Rockies.
My entire winemaking career is based on a solid foundation of creating
wines from native and hybrid grape varieties that people thoroughly savor (I’ve
also made my share of wines from vinifera grapes). You’ll find excellent quality
wines from these classes of grapes at all the wineries where I ply my trade. From
Cayuga White to Catawba, Baco noir to Corot noir, or Chambourcin to Concord,
you cannot beat the intense fruit driven aroma and flavor of native and hybrid
grape wines. Ranging from bone dry to sweet table wines, including ice wines,
sparkling wines, and fortified dessert wines, native and hybrid grape wines are
huge sellers.
Making wines from these varieties is every bit as difficult as making wines
from the finest Chardonnays or Merlots but not nearly as boring. Oh yes, we
make “those” wines as well but there is no excitement in it for us. How can you
compare the refreshment inherent in drinking an ice cold bottle of Niagara grape
wine compared to an ice cold bottle of Sauvignon blanc? There is no
comparison.
Next time you visit the Niagara Wine Trail (www.niagarawinetrail.org), do
your part to stomp out grape racism and try these wines I make at the following
wineries:
Niagara Landing Wine Cellars
www.niagaralanding.com
Baco noir red table wine
Vidal blanc Ice wine
Boxer Blush
Rosebud Rose
Schulze Vineyards and Winery
www.schulzewines.com
Dry Vidal blanc
Vidal blanc Ice Wine
Cuvee Rose
Ruby red table wine
Leonard Oakes Estate Winery
www.oakeswinery.com
Cayuga White
Vignoles white table wine
Blushing Oakes
Frontenac red table wine
The Winery at Marjim Manor
www.marjimmanor.com
Starlight white table wine
Spring Lake Steuben
Lord of the Manor red table wine
Sophia’s Sunrise
Enjoy!
I would love to hear about your experience with any of these and many more
native and hybrid grape wines from any of the above wineries. You can comment
on them on my website by clicking on either “Contact Domenic” or “Wine Forum”.
I’ll be sure that the winery where you purchased your wine sees your comments
as well.
The 99.0000000…% Rule of Winemaking
My friend, Tony Cefali, is an excellent home winemaker. I rate his
technical skills as being on par with some of the best winemakers I know. His
knowledge about winemaking does not come from being satisfied with his skills
but from continually perfecting those skills. I make it a point to pass on what I
learn to him and he does the same for me.
Whether you make wine at home in 5 gallon carboys or for a large winery
in 300,000 gallon tanks, you have an obligation to yourself or to your employer to
strive for perfection in every bit of wine under your care. When you stop learning
about winemaking, or any creative venue, whether it is art, music, cooking,
creating websites for your customers, or writing, you stop evolving as a person.
There is nothing as enriching as learning and applying a new technique or skill to
something you already do very well.
There is a world of awesomeness and total wonder between making wines
99% well and 100% well. It is in the approach toward perfection that drives us to
attempt to make such wines, recognizing that we will never reach 100%. That
rating is reserved for God alone.
The 99.0000000…% rule of Winemaking calls us to uncover new ways of
tweaking excellent wines in order to approach perfection. In 33 years of making
over 300,000,000 gallons of wine, I never cease to learn something new about
winemaking. I absolutely love what I do and I am constantly amazed at how
simple changes can effect such large improvements in a wine’s complexity.
I’m working on a publication called “My Very Best Winemaking Tips and
Techniques: Up to Now” to be offered only through my website. This is a
compilation of practical tips and techniques discovered and applied throughout
my winemaking career that I rely upon every day in my work. The information
covers every conceivable winemaking process including table wines, fruit wines,
sparkling wines, and dessert wines. Stay posted to my website for more
information.
I also teach courses on practical winemaking to both home and
professional winemakers. Check out the events listing on my website.
In whatever it is you do, whether it’s making chocolate chip cookies for
your kids, or doing 10 loads of laundry a day, filling prescriptions, or running a
multinational corporation, don’t ever stop learning and applying something new.
It’s a beautiful thing!
What’s Up with Wine and Food Pairings?
There is a growing movement among wine consumers; pairing wines with
foods. Now, I know that for some of you this is a mute point. I mean, after all,
what else would you pair with wine or with food? But, for too long, wine in
America was advertised as a stand alone beverage, consumed at parties or
celebrations by themselves and not with food.
In the last year, I’ve presided at many food and wine pairing dinners using
wines I make for my winery families. Often, these events take place at a local
restaurant. Sometimes they occur at the winery itself which is very special. There
are some hard and fast rules when pairing wines and foods and there are
unlimited sites on the internet that speak to those rules. My website also features
a page on wine and food pairings where I’ll feature a group of wines and
suggested food pairings.
I tell people that I am a simple winemaker and in my simplicity I try to offer
suggestions for foods and wines that everyone can enjoy. You do not need to be
a gourmet cook and a wine connoisseur to enjoy an everyday meal with a good
bottle of wine. My focus is to have people that buy wines at the wineries where I
make wine look upon wine as an everyday beverage, not only for special
occasions.
Make sure you check out my wine and food pairing page. Make it a point
to try my suggestions. Live a little! |